Exploring Tuscany & Umbria

Happy Holidays and Entry into 2023!

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OVERVIEW.

This year I made several brief trips to Italy—most recently for a three day weekend which included staying in Florence, then heading to the countryside to visit the ancient city of Anghiara in Tuscany, as well as the the region of Umbria.

In the year 1504, Leonardo de Vinci and Michelangelo were both commissioned to create massive fresco images that faced each other inside the Palazzo Vecchio of Florence. Michelangelo would paint the Battle of Cascina, while Da Vinci would paint the Battle of Anghiari. This would depict a battle that took place in the year 1440 for the hilltop and walled city of Anghiara. It was fought between the Florentines, who controlled the city, as well as their allies the Venetians against an attacking army from Milan. The Florentines prevailed.

Neither Michelangelo or Da Vinci completed their work. Copies of some preparatory sketches show how these images would have been magnificent.

Hence, my desire to visit the walled hilltop city of Anghiari.

But first, Florence.

In Florence, I met Italian and American friends Paola and Pax for dinner at a restaurant that overlooks the Arno River.

Below are images of meals and wines from these days of travel—from city to country, and from Tuscany to Umbria.

FIRST DESTINATION – RESTAURANT BORGO SAN JACOPO, IN FLORENCE CITY.

Amuse Bouche –

Appetizer Wine –

Caccia al Piano. Cap Rosé. Bolgheri. 2020.

A sparkling blend of Syrah and Merlot, made using the traditional method.

First Course –

Risotto with pecorino cheese from Pienza, chiccory, saffron and Chianina meatballs.

Risotto al pecorino di Pienza, cicoria, zafferano, e polpette di chianina.

First Course Wine –

Ferrari. Perlé. Trentodoc. 2017. Sparkling wine.

Second Course –

Braised lamb shank with chickpea ‘cecina’ and artichockes.

Stinco di Agnello brasato con cecina e carciofi.

Second Course Wine –

Piastraia. Bolgheri Superiore. 2016.

Desserts –

Dessert Wine –

Limoncello from the Amalfi coast.

SECOND DESTINATION – RESTAURANT FRESCOBALDI, IN FLORENCE CITY.

On the second night in Florence, I visited a restaurant frequented before.

Main Course –

Scampi Ravioli, Lemon Bisque and Pomegranate.

Ravioli di scampi, bique al limone e melograno.

Wine –

Frescobaldi. Castel Giocondo. Brunello di Montalcino. 2016.

THIRD DESTINATION – LA CANTINA DEL GRANDUCA DI MENCARONI, IN THE ANCIENT CITY OF ANGHIARI.

First Course –

Tagliolini with castelmagno cheese cream, pumpkin and toasted hazelnuts.

Tagliolini con crema di castelmagno, zucca e nocciole tostate.

Second Course –

Rabbit in bacon, sausage, olives, herbs from the garden and hazelnuts, with leek cream and sautéed herbs.

Coniglio in porchetta ripieno di salciccia olive erbe dell’orto e nocciiole, con crema di porro ed erbette ripassate.

Wine for Both Courses –

Demibottle—Tenuta Fertuna. Pactio. Toscana Rosso. IGT. 2018.

FOURTH DESTINATION – OSTERIA LE CIVETTE, IN THE UMBRIAN TOWN OF CITERNA.

First Course –

Eggplant flan, goat cheese, dried tomatoes and almonds.

Flan di melanzana, caprino, pomodori secchi e mandorle.

Second Course –

Stewed lamb.

Angelo stuffato.

Wine –

Di Filippo. Montefalco Sagrantino. DOCG. 2017.

SCENE & INSIDER ANGLES.

Below is a photo of owner/staff from the Umbrian restaurant.

A few tips for travel to the Tuscan countryside.

• If you have already visited key historical cities such as Florence, Siena, Pisa or Lucca, you may want to get off the well traveled route and visit lesser known locales.

• Most Italian museums include writings and explanations in both Italian and English (which is not always the case in France, for example).

• Sample the local wine. (True, Sagrantino from Montefalco is not local to the region of Citerna, although it does come from the same general region of Italy.)

• Before visiting a location, choose one aspect of the culture or history you want to learn more about, and then on arrival explore for more information. During this long weekend trip to Florence, my friend gave me a book about the ‘wine windows’ in residential buildings through which wealthy families once sold wine from their country estates in a sort of Direct To Consumer ploy to avoid taxes. Hunting down a few of these windows was a fun way to explore parts of Florence.

Thanks for tuning in again.