OVERVIEW.
To learn more about the successful, quality driven wine cooperatives of Cantina Terlan and Cantina Andriano in the far northern Alto Adige region of Italy, ready my Forbes piece titled – The Luxury Wine Cooperatives of Northern Italy.
Beautiful wines, paired with stellar meals described below.
1. DISHES & WINES –
RESTAURANT SISSI DI ANDREA FENOGLIO
Located in Merano at the northern end of the Adige Valley.
Appetizer Wine –
Champagne Ulysse Collin. 2016. Disgorged 2020.
First Dish –
Baccalà, Baccalà, Baccalà—Trio of Salt Cod
First Wine –
Vorberg Pinot Bianco Riserva. Alto Adige Terlano. DOC. 2019.
Rounded and open aromas of green apples—typical of the Pinot Bianco from which this wine is exclusively made. Includes crisp acidity from the 550 to 650 meters elevation where the grapes are grown.
Second Dish –
Spaghetti Omega3 Monograno Felicetti. This pasta is drenched in fish liver sauce and is rich in Omega 3. Chef Fenoglio says this is his translation of foie gras from the sea.
Second Wine –
Cantina Andrian. Andrius Sauvignon Blanc. Alto Adige DOC. 2020.
Aromas of green apples and caramel. Some raspberry red fruit influence. Crisp and mineral flavors of green apples and limes. Brittle acidity. A renowned, classic wine for restaurants.
Third Dish –
Quail and Mimolette Cheese.
Third Wine –
Cantina Terlan. Nova Domus Riserva. Alto Adige Terlan DOC. 2019.
This blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc is typical of Cantina Terlan. It is made from grapes from 40 year old vines. This rich, zesty white includes aromatic layers of caramel and spice. Think of a rich buttered Burgundy meeting a lick of Sauternes as well as a clean, acidic Riesling, but with a lick of burnt caramel thrown in.
Fourth Dish –
Onion and Smoked Leek with Black Truffle.
Fifth Dish –
Soy Meat, Nettle Sauce and Carrots.
Wine for Fourth and Fifth Dishes –
Gannt Merlot Riserva 2018. Bright acidity and fruit as well as integrated earthy flavors. This is an Alto Adige masquerading as a Napa.
Dessert –
Buttermilk ice cream, almond crumble and apple juice.
Wine for Dessert –
Château Gazin. Pomerol. Bordeaux. 2015.
HOFRESTAURANT ZUM LÖWEN
Located about half way up the Adige valley.
First Dish –
Millefoglie di foie gras, fette carameliate di mele e curry. Carmelized mille feuille of fois gras.
First Wine –
Legras & Haas Champagne. Chouilly Grand Cru. 2008.
Second Dish –
Fritto misto di frutti di mare, maionese picante, creme di finocchi e peperoni or mixed seafood in fennel, marinated peppers and chilli mayonnaise.
Third Dish –
Tortelli di pane Schüttelbrot con fonduta di malga, ortica e achillea, or Schüttelbrot tortelli with fonduta of alpine pasture cheese and nettle cream.
Wine for Second and Third Dishes –
Cantina Terlan. Quarz Sauvignon Blanc. Alto Adige Terlan DOC.
Fourth Dish –
Risotto ai tre pomodori, or risotto with tomato.
Fifth Dish –
Petto di vitello in oliocottura con bietole colorate e gelato alla cipola tropea, or confit of veal breast with beets and tropea ice cream.
Wine for Fourth and Fifth Dishes –
Giuseppe Rinaldi. Barolo DOCG. 2013.
RESTAURANT MIIL
The word ‘miil’ means mill.
The menu reads ‘We cook whatever we like, what nature gives us, what makes us happy, traditional, modern and open-minded.’
Dishes –
A medley, which included Ravioli alla Norma with egglpant, tomato and ricotta (top left), pomodoro cuor di bue, or herbs, elderflower capers panzanella—a type of salad (top right) and tartara di manzo nostrano al coltello, or hand chopped local beef tartar with smoked eel, creme fraiche and radish (bottom left) and general appetizers (bottom right)
Wines –
Many, including a 2019 Meursault from Burgundy, a 2012 Egly-Ourier Grand Cru Champagne, a 2018 Felsenec Riesling and a Miani Pettarin Ribolla Giala from Friuli, Italy.
2. SCENE & INSIDER ANGLES
- The main city of Alto Adige is Bolzano, but many of the best restaurants are found in the countryside out of the city.
- Despite this region being in northern Italy under the Alps, it can be blazingly hot during summer. Prepare for heat.
- Here are some of the best cooperative wines in the world, made under strict guidance and regulation for quality.
- Higher end wines here made from Pinot Bianco, as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc can be delicious, rich and complex. Prepare for some potentially amazing dining experiences.
- The Dolomite Mountains are nearby, and are spectacular. Visit if in the region.
- Bolazano and the region include museums for Otzi the ice man—a mummified preliterate individual with a rich history, and a museum for mountaineer Reinhold Messner (who solo climbed Mount Everest, decades ago, without oxygen).
- The history of change here means that languages spoke ninclude both German and Italian.
- Regional dishes focus on potatoes, meat, pasta and there is also spatzle and fish. Desserts include apple strudel, chestnut tortes, candied prunes and so much more. The Terlano wine soup is famous, and wonderful!
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