San Lorenzo cathedral, Genoa


Coastal Genoa city is the midpoint of the Ligurian coast in northwest Italy, and links together Provencal France and Italy’s Tuscany and Piedmont regions. Combine seafood with regional dishes and wines from these locales, and this small, compact, insanely historically important city is a powerhouse for excellent dining. I found a tiny restaurant along one of the alleyway—known as caruggi—and loved the lunch!

I Canovacci Restaurant along Via Dei Macelli di Soziglia in Genoa city

1. CHEF.

Chef Biagio Cacciaguerra is originally from Sicily. For the past two years he and his wife Alessandra have owned and run the small Genoese restaurant I Canovacci Cucina e Bottega in the city of Genoa. He spoke about his food and cooking when we recently met.

“It’s typical cuisine, made with my heart, only with food that is in season! A lot of fish and vegetables. Our specialty is lasagna, and I make a different type every day.”

Chef Biagio Cacciaguerra

2. DISH.

Ravioloni di magro burro, aneto e polvere di nocciola. Or, vegetable ravioli with butter, dill and hazelnut powder. This delicious dish cost only 9 Euros, and tasted splendid.


3. WINE.

The wine list includes natural and organic wines; below are a selected white and red.

La Treggiata is a 13% alcohol IGT Vermentino from Le Calle, located in the village of Cingiano in Poggi del Sasso. This family owned winery and working farm in the Maremma region of Tuscany also includes accommodation (as an agriturismo). The family also raises cattle and produces homemade pasta (which is for sale).

La Treggiata (photo from website of Le Calle)

For red, try a Biagio Antico Sangiovese from Agricola Ancarani in Faenza in Emilia-Romagna, southeast of the city of Bologna. They also produce ‘cappelli’ wheat.

Biagio Antico Sangiovese (photo from website of Ancarani)


Roam the alleyways of Genoa to find a small, good quality venue for lunch or dinner. Or drive along the Ligurian coast, which is rocky and includes ample tunnels. Views of the deep blue Mediterranean coast are gorgeous. The alley named Via di Prè within Genoa city is dodgy and thin and filled with equal parts police officers and shady smugglers. It’s both lively and colorful if you decide to explore, but it’s probably best to roam it vigilantly during daylight.

View of Genoa port and city

This Post Has 2 Comments

  1. Michael Cosgrave wrote this from Vietnam:

    Dear Tom,

    Please understand clearly that when you write so well about any food and wine culture that is very short on the ground here in Ha Noi, it causes great pain in thought and desire.

    I will continue to read your expressions of life but when I see them first appear in the In Box, I will grab a stiff drink and try to anaesthetise myself against some of the seven deadly sins.

    Love reading the blog.

    Sincerely Michael Cosgrave

    1. Great! Perfect and much appreciated!

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