Mullen's Cookbook Published & Napa, Italian and French Wines Reviewed

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Vino Voices e-book has just been republished. Hardback and paperback editions will also be available this summer. It is 230 pages long and includes interviews, made in a dozen countries, with more than 45 professionals working in the world of wine. They explain why they love their work. The book includes more than 100 photographs.

Overview—

Below is a testimonial for my newly released cookbook The Winemakers' Cooking Companion as well as tasting notes from wines from Napa Valley in California, USA, as well as Friuli and Tuscany in Italy and Minervois in southern France.

The Winemakers' Cooking Companion Cookbook Published!

The Winemakers' Cooking Companion cookbook has been published! It includes 108 recipes from 18 countries that were contributed by winemakers, winery chefs and winery owners. Units are both metric and American, and recipes include some marked as vegetarian or vegan.

A lively and fun book launch will take place later this summer in my village in southern France. I'll let you know when in case you decide to visit.

Testimonial for the Book—

Twenty one wine professionals from eight countries have written testimonials about the book—which are included on the back cover and initial pages.

One comes from Gabrielle Vizzavona, a debonair young French woman I met years ago while visiting a winery in Rioja. While we toured Macán—the Benjamin Rothschild / Vega Sicilia facility—I was intrigued that Gabrielle was the only one actively asking questions. We exchanged numbers and have often met over the years for dinners in Paris, as well as a visit to Gorgona Island and its prisoner operated winery off the coast of Tuscany, Italy.

Gabrielle is a wine consultant and wine teacher and has written extensively for Le Figaro newspaper. She is author of Petit éloge du vin. She also occasionally appears on French television shows about cooking. I wrote about her for Forbes years ago. She provided a glowing review for my book The Winemakers' Cooking Companion:

“Winemakers are also excellent cooks! Through many travels around the world of wine Tom Mullen shares a distilled selection of the best family recipes found in vineyards—perfectly paired with a glass of local wine.”

—Gabrielle Vizzavona, author of Petit éloge du vin and French wine television personality.

Recipe—

The free recipe below, from The Winemakers' Cooking Companion, is from Château La Rose Bellevue in the Blaye region of Bordeaux, France. The coconut really gives this gazpacho a smooth edge.

Wine Tasting Notes from California & Italy—

Napa Valley, California—

Below is a vertical tasting of three 100% Cabarnet Sauvignon wines from Chris Phelps of Napa Valley in California. The grapes are all sourced from the Sleeping Lady Vineyard in Yountville. I wrote about Chris some years ago for Forbes.

Chris Phelps Wines. Ad Vivum. Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. 2021. 96+ points.

Dark purple juice, with aromas wafting well out of the glass right after the pour that include red and black cherries, cranberries, blueberries, raspberries and coconut. First nose is complex with dense fruit, then pencil lead, black pepper, black berries and black currants. In the mouth a medium body and complex meld as complex and hearty as stroganoff, yet light, silky and delightful with suave, supple tannins and an elegant mid palate and flavors that include chocolate and blue and red fruit. A mild hit of black and cayenne pepper on a sensational finish.

Chris Phelps Wines. Ad Vivum. Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. 2022. 95-96 points.

Bright, luscious and dense red and black fruit aromas, as well as some mocha, red cherries and mild menthol. A light and luscious, almost ethereal mid palate with delicate tannins, beautiful acidity-fruit-tannin balance and flavors that include dorp licorice and cherry parfait. Light red fruit, including raspberries, on the finish. Pair with food that will not over power this—lamb and jus or even blackened salmon.

 Chris Phelps Wines. Ad Vivum. Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. 2023. 95 points.

Dense aromas that include teak, black pepper, gravy and minestrone and stroganoff. Almost Sangiovese in heft, stature and spice. Light and supple mid palate with that characteristic Sleeping Lady vineyard ethereal elegance. Smoothness incarnate. The oak is more pronounced that ’21 and ’22 but this is a supple tannin beauty with a lip tingling finish and quiet, but perky acidity. Pair with grilled steak or three cheese lasagna.

Friuli, Italy—

La Ponca vines are located in the highest part of the renowned Collio region of Friuli in northeastern Italy, at the base of the Korada mountain range. 'Ponca' refers to marl and sandstone soils the provide distinct flavors, such as salinity. Fermentation takes place in oak, followed by a year of aging in wood and another year aging in steel. The estate was taken over by Alex Maccan in 2021.

La Ponca. Sauvignon. Collio DOC. 2023. 93-94 points.

Named after friable marine sandstone substrate of the hills of Collio laid down 50 million years ago in Friuli, this light to medium gold colored wine from 12 to 20 year old vines includes quiet aromas of lemongrass and grapefruit. In the mouth, the attack is a beautiful meld of acidity of fruit, followed by a viscous and full oily mouth feel and delicious flavors of honey, apricots, peaches and mild minerality. This lacquered and medium bodied Sauvignon Blanc has shades reminiscent of a semi-sweet Sémillon from Sauternes. Pair with a tagine or foie gras. 3,800 bottles produced.

La Ponca. Ribolla Gialla. Collio DOC. 2022. 93 points.

Gold/salmon colored juice in this 14% alcohol wine. Peppery and lemongrass first nose, followed by honey and grapefruit and slight salinity. In the mouth—white peaches mid palate and a rich nectar with an oily mouthfeel and lively, charming acidic/fruit salad meld. Light but still viscous with a mildly spearmint finish. Pair with crackers and anchovies, or a fruit salad sprinkled with chili powder. 2,100 bottles produced.

La Ponca. Friulano. Collio DOC. 2023. 91-92 points.

14 percent alcohol in this Friuli white wine made using 20 year old Friulano grapes, which have been native to the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region since the 17^th century. Light gold/straw color. Brisk and snappy and slightly saline aromas with florals, mandarin, guava. Velvety sheen on the cheeks, with flavors that include mild honey and almonds mid palate as well as tropical fruit salad with complexity and vibrant acidity. A festive, gastronomic wine. 6,000 bottles produced.

Tuscany, Italy—

The Biserno project began in 2001 by the Antinori brothers and their nephew Niccolò Lenzi and includes three estates in the alta Maremma in southwestern Tuscany.

Tenuta di Biserno. Il Pino di Biserno. Toscana IGT. 2023. 91+ points.

Blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, of which 85% ages in French barriques and 15% in steel. Aromas of gorse, tar and black currants. Firm tannins and an alcohol kick at 14.5%. Red currant flavor on the attack, blackberries and cedar mid palate. Taut tannins. Pair with peppered beef.

Tenuta di Biserno. Biserno di Biserno. Toscana IGT. 2023. 92+ points.

Flagship estate wine with a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Aged in French oak for 16 months. Buoyant and open aromas of red plums, teak, eucalyptus and raspberries. Balanced in the mouth with swirling, fluid acidity. Flavors of red cherries, some coconut and blackberries with molasses on the finish. Alcohol slightly surpasses fruit and acidity in profile, yet this is a hearty mouthful with suave tannins. Pair with pan grilled sausages and fried onions.

Tenuta di Biserno. Colle Mezzano di Biserno. Toscana IGT. 2023. 92-93 points.

Cabernent Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend aged in partially new French oak for up to 16 months, followed by another year of bottle aging. A layer cake of aromas of campfire smoke, sage and red currants as well as teak and red cherries. A quaffable mouthful of rich red fruit and some rum raisin flavors mid palate. Swimming acidity in the mouth and low key but firm tannins. Menthol, raspberries, some dorp licorice and German chocolate cake on the finish. Complex and engaging. Not yet as elegant as a Bordeaux Grand Cru Classé, but certainly moving in that direction.

Pinino. Brunello di Montalcino. DOCG. 2021. 95 points.

From the legendary Il Borro estate of Tuscany, which I wrote about for Forbes a few years ago in this article. Dark but semitranslucent amber ruby color in this wine with 14% alcohol. First nose is a quiet hearty broth, followed by complex pungent volatiles, woodland trail and orange rind aromas. Peppery and dense on the nose. Some hummus and gorse. In the mouth a rodeo of complex dark flavors that include dark red cherries, shredded beef, pomegranate and on the finish—baked butternut squash. Engaging, layered, with light and wispy acidity and translucent tannins. This is a trip down a cypress lined Tuscan lane, a read of ancient Italian manuscripts, and for dining—a companion for Tuscan beef steak or pasta with truffles and extra virgin island oil.

Minervois, France—

Château Saint Jacques d'Albas is the brainchild of Cambridge educated Graham Nutter, who sunk his financial career won funds into a huge segment of gorgeous land in the Minervois wine region in southern France 25 years ago. I wrote about Graham and his winery for Forbes several years ago in this piece.

His highest end wines (at a bargain €35 Euros a bottle) are from La Collection, described below.

Saint Jacques d’Albas. La Collection. Heritage Blanc. 2024. 93 points

A blend of Petit Manseng, Viognier, Vermentino and Marsanne. Only 650 bottles produced. Complex, Burgundian aromas. In the mouth—tension, richness and buttery, with mouth-watering acidity.

 Saint Jacques d’Albas. La Collection. Heritage Rouge. 2022. 94+ points

100% Syrah includes aromas of syrup and tar with Burgundian stature and heft. In the mouth this is honey and chocolate and black currants. Delicate yet also hefty and complex. Embracing acidity and toned tannins. The winemaker recommends pairing this with truffles.

What's Coming Next In Vino Voices

I'll soon feature:

• Unique Atlantic/Mediterranean wines of the Malpère and Cabardès appellations of southern France.
• Recipe for Tarte Bugiste (Bugey is located about mid-way between the cities of Lyon and Geneva).

• Red tuna and local Carignan wine on the Sardinian island of San Pietro.

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